Pockets of Blue

musings of my mind

Category: Travel (page 3 of 4)

2008 Ouray Ice Festival

Tons of ice climbing. World-class competition. All-you-can-drink craft beer. Cheap gear. Sound good? Then you should’ve been at the ice festival this past weekend in Ouray, CO. Ouray (rhymes with hooray!) is a fantastic little mountain town in the heart of the San Juan Mountains of Southwestern Colorado. Its annual festival features the premiere ice and mixed climbing competition on this side of the Atlantic. That means the best climbers in the world congregate there, some taking part in the comp and the others teaching clinics and giving slide shows.

The Competition

I rolled into town after a 4am departure from Salt Lake, plenty in time to catch the main competition. At around 10:00 I took the shuttle a half mile or so up to the Ice Park. The comp was in full swing by the time I arrived. Some highlights:

  • Will Mayo cruising up the mixed part only to drop an ice tool at the beginning of the suspended log section. He made some gnarly moves with one tool, though, somehow managing to make it to the bottom of the plywood board (a 42° incline mind you) before falling.
  • Jeff Mercier coming out of nowhere to set the bar for the rest of the comp, methodically making his way up the route before sending the final dyno to top out. Awesome stuff.
  • Ines Papert blazing the route only to get stuck on the last move of the board. She’s pretty short and made a couple of static attempts at the top, but fell soon afterwards. She won the women’s competition nonetheless.
  • Evgeny “Jack” Kryvosheytsev (that’s a mouthful) also crusing the route but popping a tool unexpectedly on the third to last hold on the route. He was a favorite to win and ended up taking second instead.

Hot Springs

Ouray has dozens of natural hot springs in town, all of them of course have been scarfed up by various hotels. After six hours of hanging out in the cold I decided to

Who needs two tools?

wander around and see if any of them would let me hang out for awhile. After a bit of inquiring I found the Wiesbaden Hotel (as if it wasn’t similar enough to Austria) and promptly paid 15 bucks to soak for a bit. Holy crap was it awesome! The receptionist recommended the vapor cave so I went downstairs and opened a huge, heavy wooden door to reveal a steamy, slimy, slightly stinky room. Wtf is this? I thought before hearing some voices from beyond, deeper into the weirdest dungeon ever. Beyond another wooden door was the real deal, a 105° natural sauna with a small wading pool filled with blazingly hot spring water.

Now I have been to several hot springs both here out West and in Europe, and this took the case. I am a naturalist and the whole layout was perfect: a cave bore out of bedrock with only a few unassuming planks of wood around the outside to sit or lie on. I wish I would have taken a picture, it was so sweet.

So I hung out down there for twenty minutes or so, sweating and chatting it up with a climber couple from Denver about the comp and whatnot. Then I migrated outside to yet another natural hot spring, a swimming pool filled with the same refreshing water! It was here that I really soaked all the gloriousness in, chatting with a bunch of people from BC, Colorado and even a (preliminary) competitor from the comp.

An Orgy of Beer and Lasagna

Next up was something I had been looking forward to for awhile: An Ouray volunteer fire department benefit dinner consisting of Lasagna and all-you-can-drink beer! They even had New Belgium reps go around and fill up your cup as you waited in line for food!! Only $15 and you got all this, plus the added benefit of a room full of funny, friendly, genuinely awesome people. They are really what make the event, I had never before experienced such an awesome community.

Will Gadd, the First Class Badass

Any ice climber knows about Will Gadd, one of the preeminent luminaries in the sport and frequent dominator of the Ouray Ice competition. After the lasagna dinner he put on a slideshow chronicling his climbing life including numerous significant alpine, ice and mixed routes all over the world. He’s also apparently a prolific paraglider and had some amazing footage of gliding all over the Rockies, from Boulder to Banff. Oh and the slideshow was all-you-can-drink New Belgium beer also. The know their clientele.

I hadn’t gotten a hotel in time and didn’t feel like shelling out 90 bucks for one, so I passed out in the car for the night. Colorado mountain towns aren’t so toasty in mid-January; however I had planned for it with my dual-sleeping bag system, in which I was nice and toasty.

Sunday Clinics

Another big reason I came down to the festival was for the clinics. Climbing ice is substantially more dangerous than rock, and unlike most things I feel like I need some instruction before going at it full-on. And not only are the clinics in a great locale, but they’re all taught by the premiere, sponsored climbing badasses of the day. Sunday morning was my easy/intermediate ice clinic taught by Kelly Cordes, another ice and rock strongman sponsored by several companies. His ascent of the Great Trango Tower with Josh Wharton is one of the most amazing stories I’ve ever read.

The clinic went well, I’ve gotten so much stronger since the last time I went ice climbing it was almost comical. I still need to work on my footwork but I’m feeling better and better on ice. In the afternoon I took an avalanche clinic put on my one of the guides for San Juan Mountain Guides. I already knew about half the material but the other half has definitely beneficial. Avalanches really creep me out and I do enough backcountry skiing and climbing that I need to learn as much as I can to be safe from the biggest objective hazard in the mountains. Already this winter I have learned quite a bit; I find it fascinating and am already an almost religious follower of the postings by the Utah Avalanche Center.

So if it’s not already obvious, Ouray was a hell of a time and I will definitely be back next year, hopefully with people that don’t back out the day before the trip (no names there)! For now I’m pretty psyched to get back on the ice!

Summer 2007

Since I’ve been quiet for so long I decided to put together a concise little geographical representation of my adventures this past summer. It has been, by far, the most fun summer of my life (even with a day job!):


View Larger Map

However, I highly recommend you download a KML overlay to be used in Google Earth here. Make sure to right-click and save as… Then just open it from Google Earth.

Enjoy!

Mexico: Part Two

It’s the middle of the night.  It’s about 50 degrees and we’ve been sleeping for about four hours.  We cook up some oatmeal, assemble our gear, and are out the door by 1:50 AM.  Not badThe mountain

Adam immediately took the lead (apparently he was feeling good), but I ended up taking a different path up the aqueduct and led the first pitch up the mountain.  We moved at a pretty good pace all the way to the top of the first pitch, or up to the first wall in the picture.  From there Tim, Curtis, Greg and I took turns leading and setting a pace.  It was difficult setting a pace for six people so we ended up going a bit slowly, but still got up to the labyrinth 40 minutes quicker than the group had yesterday.  However, from there there was no path to follow, and we would have to make some routefinding decisions, through a field of boulders, in the middle of the night.  We went up on the left side of the labyrinth (not visible in the picture) and eventually got to a point where we couldn’t go right anymore due to a large rock wall blocking the way.  I was starting to get a bit nervous because it felt like we were off track, but we plodded on anyway, eventually putting on crampons to climb some steep ice pitches.  At that point Greg and I were probably feeling the best.  However, after eating a couple handfuls of trail mix I started to feel nauseous and developed a mild headache. 

By about 4:30 we topped out on a ridge.  It was nowhere even close to the glacier, at least a half mile to the left.  Greg took a scouting hike along the ridge to see if we could proceed.  It looked doable but we had lost a ton of momentum.  Some people were coughing and complaining of massive headaches.  At that point I had a pretty bad one myself and has feeling a bit nauseous.  After some discussion the sun started to peek over the horizon and we r100_1797ealized we were quite a bit behind schedule.  Once climbers reach the glacier it takes about 4-5 hours to summit, and then about the same time to descend.  Not wanting to have to rush ourselves and put us at risk of HAPE or HACE we decided to descend as a group. 

I was pretty pissed.  Three months of anticipation and we didn’t even make it to the glacier.   Greg and I briefly considered splitting off from the group and having a go ourselves but we reneged.  Instead we took some pictures and started the long haul down.   By 8 am we were all the way back.  Having your day be pretty much over by 8 am is a strange, strange feeling.

Joaquin came a couple hours early and we were glad to get the hell out of that hut.  It was a beautiful day; the sky was completely clear, the wind was minimal, and it was close to 50 degrees.  Pretty much the perfect day to be STANDING ON THE SUMMIT.  So I’m still bitter.

No matter, because the next evening we were tipping back beers and watching soccer in a sports bar in downtown Veracruz.  We were in high spirits despite the lack of a summit, and spent the evening drinking on the beach.  One day you’re shivering at 16,000 feet in 10° alpine winds, and the next you’re being warmed by a 70°ocean breeze off the Gulf of Mexico. 

We spent the next day gallavanting across Veracruz, going to Museums, an aquarium, and lying in hammocks by the pool.  The whole time I had a nagging feeling in the back of my mind like I shouldn’t have even been there, but rather on the mountain trying to conquer it.

The next day we took a first-class bus back to Mexico City and watched some decidedly non-first-class movies.  It was still pretty relaxing and we arrived in the early evening to the smell of feces that pervaded the city.  Our hotel was easily the most expensive of the trip and the lights would intermittently go off and on again.  We slept in comfort and made it to the airport before dawn to be back in Philly by four in the afternoon. 

Reflection:
Looking back on the trip it seemed that there were a few factors that combined to bar of us from reaching the summit.  I’ll go through them to help future novice expedition leaders plan:

  1. Split up your group if it’s big.  Six people is a big group.  People travel at different speeds, remove/put on layers at different times, stop to eat and drink when necessary, and otherwise hold the group up as a whole.  Splitting the group up by health and speed of travel would’ve separated the able from the unable, and I can guarantee that I would’ve been at the head of the pack.
  2. Scope out any tough routefinding areas in advance.  Here we tried to do this, but by the time the group got to the labyrinth (the day before the actual climb) they were in the clouds and couldn’t see a thing.  Having said that, it seems pretty obvious that we should’ve erred to the right rather than the left because there was much less room for error.  But routefinding at three in the morning and 15,500 feet will be challenging for anyone.
  3. Leave plenty of time to acclimatize.  People will adjust to the altitude at different speeds.  It has nothing to do with how good shape you’re in, but everything to do with where you live.  If we lived in Flagstaff this climb would’ve been cake for everyone.  That being said, another day or two chilling at 14,000 feet would’ve made the climb a lot more enjoyable.
  4. Know your climbing partners.  If somebody isn’t 100% dedicated to the climb, leave them behind.  A 40-degree inclined glacier at 17,000 feet is no place to be asking "Why am I here?"

Mexico: Part One

Hey, I’m back.  So it seems as if I’m going through phases of creativity and self-expression, alternating with apathy.  Bear with me.  When I do post, it’ll probably be worth the wait.  But anyway, on to the post.  I’m going to break it in two since it’s gonna be a long one:

On January 27 I flew down to Mexico City to embark on my first high-altitude mountaineering adventure.  Several months ago the idea was ping-ponging about my brain and I did some internet research to see what kind of climbs would be feasible and within my limited time and budget.  I came across a few candidates, and mentioned one to my roommate Curtis: Pico de Orizaba, an 18,500 foot (5800 m) volcano between Puebla and Mexico City in central Mexico.  Unlike most high climbs, there wasn’t any sort of fee for using the mountain hut and we figured the whole trip would end up being pretty cheap.

Wow, were we wrong.  It was hella-cheap.  I spent $350 on the flight to and from Mexico City and no more than another $350 while there.  Most people spend that just getting to their vacation destination.  Then again, most people don’t sleep with mice or get up at 1 am to climb mountains on vacation either.  But more about that later.

Curtis was immediately in and excited about the trip.  We contacted all our climbing (and some non-climbing) buddies to round up some more people.  After a few weeks two more had committed: Greg, one of Curtis’s college buddies, and Tim, one of Greg’s friends.  Over the next couple of months we recruited two more: Nick, another runner and friend of Curtis’s, and Adam, another of his college friends.  That made six.  We figured this was perfect since groups of three are ideal for roped glacier travel.

On Friday, Jan. 26 we left Rochester to drive down to Philadelphia, where our flight would leave at 7 am the next day.  We stayed at a friend of Greg’s, made it to the airport on time, and were in Mexico City by 2 PM.  Beforehand we had decided to try and make it to Tlachichuca (the closest town to the mountain where we would spend time acclimatizing) that day.  By 10 PM we had arrived at the climber’s hostel after a long day of bus-riding and mountain viewing. 

Side note: Touching down in Mexico City is really cool.  You can see two enormous glaciated volcanoes in the distance (Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl) as well as numerous smaller mountains within the city.  The city is a massive sprawl; getting from the airport to the outskirts took well over an hour by bus.

After the insanity of Mexico City it was nice to settle down in the small mountain town of Tlachichuca (say it: tlah-chee-CHOO-cah) for awhile.  It is a poor village with very few restaurants or tourist attractions of any sort.  There are three hostels that cater to climbers, and we chose what surely is the best, run by the gracious Joaquin Canchola Limón and his wonderful daughter Maribel.   When arriving she asked us if we were hungry.  We were of course famished and she cooked up a multi-course meal right then and there, serving it up by 10:30 PM!  It was fantastic.  We enjoyed authentic, delicious homemade Mexican meals three times a day until we left for the mountain on Monday.

On Sunday we had our first taste of exertion at altitude.  Mexico City lies at about 7,300 feet (2200 m) while Tlachichuca is closer to 8,500 (2600 m), and while we didn’t feel any effects the first night, Sunday was different.  The group split into two and I, and in my typical gung-ho hiking100_1705
spirit, decided to go climb the ridge right next to the city.  Adam and Curtis joined me while the others went for a run.  It was a sweltering 80 degree day and it took about an hour and a half to reach the middle summit in the photo at right.  I would guess we were at about 10,000 feet at that point, and it was a little slower going up than normal but not too bad.  The others, however, were hurting during their run.  (Nick, Greg and Tim all run marathons for fun [yeah they’re nuts] so they know their limits very well)

It was a pretty fun hike besides the nasty cacti that kept assaulting my shins and feet.  We got some breathtaking views of the mountain and topped out by mid-afternoon.  There’s nothing like getting sunburned in January.

We also wandered around the market (typical street market stuff, kinda like in Europe but dirtier) and picked up a soccer ball, with which Greg and I displayed our American skillz on the street outside the hostel.  At one point Maribel’s son (of about 5-6 years) joined in; he had quite a kick on him. 

By noon on Monday we were in Joaquin’s 4×4 heading up a dirt road to the mountain hut at 14,000 feet.  The road was BADASS.  I wish I would’ve taken a few pictures of it, there were several points where there were hundred foot drops two feet past the edge of the road and the hugest potholes I have ever seen.  Taking anything less than a monster truck on it would be disastrous (and highly entertaining for any passersby).  We took some awesome shots of the mountain on the way up, and after two hours were at Piedra Grande, the rustic mountain hut at the top of a large field.  The air was distinctly cooler but the views were amazing.

We spent the rest of the day hanging out at 14,000 feet, and after three or four hours we all had come down with pretty bad headaches.  First signs of altitude sickness.  I popped a couple Ibuprofen and was good to go, but the others didn’t have such luck.  Before Joaquin left to go back down the mountain we had to tell him what day to pick us up.  After a lengthy discussion we decided to have him come back on Wednesday, thus we would have one full day to acclimatize and an extra day at the beach later on in the week.  That night it was incredibly windy, the hut had a metal roof and it would go BANG BANG BANG BANG every time a gust came overhead.  It was like sleeping under railroad tracks, except trains usually don’t go by EVERY FIVE MINUTES.

At dawn we were up ("up" being a poor term, we were up most of the night) and ready to, well, not do much of anything.  Tuesday was supposed to be an acclimitization day, meaning we would hike around for a bit and let our bodies build up a tolerance to the lack of oxygen.  I got bored at one 100_1779point and went for a walk by myself, purposefully going REALLY slow so as not to exert myself too much.  When I got back four of the other guys were all geared up to go up the mountain for a few hours.  Curtis was feeling pretty awful and I didn’t feel like going again so soon so I hung back with him.   We went for another walk up behind the hut to a ridge so we could get a good view of Tlachichuca, which we couldn’t see from the hut.  It was ferociously windy and we had to lean into the wind so it wouldn’t blow us off the mountain, but a good time nonetheless.  Curtis got an awesome panorama from the ridge.

Sometime in the late afternoon the other guys returned.  They had gone all the way up to the labyrinth (a glacier-carved boulder field above 15,500 feet) before entering the clouds where they couldn’t see a thing.  Greg got a bit of a scare on the way up when he got nailed in the face with a fist-sized rock that got launched off a rock wall to the right of the path.  He was OK but a little shaken.  At that point we were debating whether we wanted to make a summit bid the next day or wait for the weather to clear, and when the clouds cleared off the summit and wind died down that night we made up our minds: Go for it tomorrow and get picked up in the afternoon by Joaquin.  So we made dinner early and passed out by dusk to get some sleep before we were to get up at 1 am the next morning.  We wanted to allow enough time to get up and down the mountain by 4 PM, and an alpine start sounds badass anyway.

During the first night Nick and I stayed up to do some killin’.  Mice killin’, that is.  The hut was infested with several families of mice, and not just any mice; mice that have LOST ALL FEAR of human beings and possess a KILLER INSTINCT.  Well, a killer instinct for pissing people off, anyway.  I narrowly missed goring one with my ice ax the first night, and Nick nailed one with his boot during the day.  They must’ve been pretty riled up because that night one crawled into Greg’s sleeping bag.  Greg literally flipped out (of his bag) and we tried to ignore them the rest of the night.  Stupid mice.

1 AM came pretty quickly.  I felt great and was really pumped for the climb.  But it’s late and I have to get to bed.  Coming up next: Summit Day and walking on the beach in Veracruz.

Berlin

I was in Berlin for four days and four nights near the end of February.  Most cities would not be able to provide four days’ worth of entertainment for your typical 21-year-old American male.  Well, in fact I didn’t cover even close to everything I wanted to.  And this was four days of my ridiculously fast, subway-cruising tourist pace.

My Mom and Dad graciously came to visit me for a week in February, and we made our way from Amsterdam to Osnabrück, Hannover and finally Berlin.  Amsterdam was nice but brief.  The Van Gogh museum was fantastic; I would call it my favorite art museum (and artist) of all that I have seen.  After a single night there we took a train to Osnabrück in the late afternoon.  I was a bit curious as to how we would keep busy in Osnabrück but it actually wasn’t bad; luckily, we claim a few very fine restaurants.  Unfortunately I had a million clerical things to do those last couple of days, so finally leaving Osnabrück was bittersweet yet relieving.  So on Wednesday we drove to Hannover as kind of a pit stop on the way to Berlin.  We didn’t have much time to do anything and just kind of walked around the city for awhile before dinner.

Finally on Thursday we made it to Berlin.  First stop was Checkpoint Charlie and it’s adjacent museum, which was fascinating.  It provided a good, quick history of the city that would end up being supplemented and reinforced several times at the other myriad tourist attractions.  Afterwards we walked to Unter den Linden, the main street of former East Berlin.  This street contains several of Berlin’s many museums and is terminated at one end by Berlin’s icon, the Brandenburg Gate.

At this point it sounds like I’m just going to be retelling each of the touristy things we did in chronological order.  Well, that’s boring so I’ll just hit the high points: 

  • That first night we ate at a fantastic authentic Greek restaurant down the street from our hotel.  I forget the name of it, but I do recall everything down to the little detail was great: the gorgeous waitresses, modern decor, delicious fruity wine, fresh baked bread, even the bottled Greek mineral water was very much above average.  My taste buds relished the finest calamari they had ever experienced, and to top it off they provided a complimetary Ouzo shot at the end.  All for under 25 euro apiece.
  • Giant, life-size foosball.  Somehow we wandered this huge foosball field complete with about 20 people playing it.  I can’t really describe it; check out the photos.  Needless to say it was awesome.
  • The VW dealership had a Bugatti on display.  Not just any Bugatti but a 1001-horsepower V16 exotic supercar.  Needless to say it was awesome.
  • "Siegesäule" (victory tower) in the middle of the Tiergarten.  It provides a very nice view of Berlin and it’s surrounded by a massive park making it all the more impressive.  Best of all, entrance was €1.50.  Eat that Eiffel Tower.
  • Jewish Memorial.  My pictures don’t really do it justice, you’ll just have to see for yourself.

Several things stood out for me in this city:

  • Incredibly varied architecture.  The reunified Berlin is only about 16 years old, yet the city itself is thousands of years old.  The development going on there at the moment is unreal.
  • Price.  Food in general was super cheap, arguably half the standard prices of Amsterdam.  Beer was like 2€ a bottle (this is unheard of in a western European city of 1.7 million people)
  • Ridiculous nightlife.  Keep reading.

After two nights my parents needed to get back so they could make it to work on Sunday.  I wanted to get on the same flight but it was prohibitively expensive, so I hung around for an extra couple of days to catch a cheap mid-week flight back to the USA.  Naturally, I stayed at a youth hostel for dirt cheap and hung out with a bunch of like-minded traveling international kids.  The first night I met a few kids at the hostel bar and we ended up going out at around midnight.  After wandering around for a while we stumbled upon one of the hundreds of techno clubs of Berlin.  It was big and very open, but at the same time had a bit of a cold atmosphere.  I chalked up the lack of dance floor inhabitants to the fact that it was a sunday.  Eventually we ended up at this reggae club down the street, and it was pretty much the exact opposite of the first club: warm, small, chill, and absolutely packed with people.  Mind you, this was at 4 AM on a sunday night, and there were at least 150 people.  I didn’t make it back to the hostel til after 5 (which, apparently, is early for Berlin).  The next night I kinda took it easy since I had to get up early for my flight, and ended up downstairs at the bar singing karaoke with and to a rather large crowd of Dutch kids.  This reaffirmed my opinion that Dutch people are cool.

The flight home was long and boring, and the initial jet lag really took it out of me.  I was quite depressed near the end, especially when we finally touched down in New Jersey and it was completely clear that my European journey had at last come to a conclusion.  All good things, alas, must eventually come to an end.

France

Last Friday Kevin and I embarked on our long-envisioned trip to
France.  Kevin had mentioned wanting to go to Normandy to check out the
beaches and museums and whatnot to appease his self-proclaimed "WW2
geek" self; I figured it would be a cool trip, and said "what the
hell."  So after not mentioning it for a few months we decided a
post-finals trip was in order.  In typical Alec fashion, I organized
the logistics for the trip: transportation, accomodation.  We would
both use rail passes and stay in cheap hotels/hostels.  After
discussing the matter with our French friends, we decided to stay in
Caen, probably the largest city in Normandy, and then stay a couple
nights in Paris.  After all, you can’t go to France without visiting
Paris.

Unfortunately we had to take separate trains, since my rail pass didn’t include Benelux (Belgium + the Netherlands + Luxembourg).
He booked a night train, while I couldn’t since I had to go way the
hell down to Frankfurt and then cut over so I wouldn’t go through
Belgium.  This added an extra four hours to the trip, which sucked.
Thirteen hours on three separate trains wastes a good chunk of a day.

At around four PM we rendezvoused in our hotel in Caen, then promptly
took off to check out this castle in the middle of the city.  It was
pretty sweet, and enormous.  The walls were fully intact and the (dry)
moat remained.  Soon thereafter it got dark so we started wandering the
city scouting out restaurants.  After walking around a corner, we saw
this:

100_0809_1 Just
in case you had any doubt as to the heritage of my name.  Oh, and a
Brasserie is a type of Restaurant (actually we never quite figured out
what the distinguishment meant).  It even had the space after "La" like
I was taught to spell it.  However it was too expensive for our
tastes so we ended up having dinner near the castle, an exquisitely
delicious three-course meal complete with wine.  I had this
potato-ground sausage concoction and Kevin tried the duck.  Both were
fantastic.  My escargot and sorbet were equally delicious; in fact, I
have never had a finer sorbet in my life.  The hostess even called up a
friend who spoke English so we could have the menu translated.  I
didn’t see this as necessary but Kevin actually wanted to know what he
was eating.  I just assumed anything I ordered would be fantastic.  I
think I would have been right.

The next day we got up early and headed to the car rental place down
the block.  After 20 minutes we were cruising around Caen in a Renault
Twingo.  It was a very basic car, but sufficient.  We had a couple
pastries at a nearby bakery (you haven’t had a real croissant until
you’ve tried a French one, they are amazing).  Afterwards we went to a
WW2 museum, and then took to the highway to the beaches.  Unfortunately
speed limits exist in France so I only pushed the Twingo up to 160 or
so, briefly.  Not driving for four months made me giddy.  It was fun.

So we went beach-hopping for the rest of the afternoon.  It was really
interesting; remnants of most parts of D-Day had been preserved, from
bombed-out fields to German artillery to the artificial port and
bridges constructed by the allies.  Pictures are abound in the photo
album at left.

The next day we took off for Paris.  Our amazing streak of good weather
came to end that day (I had been 4 for 4 with weather in France) and it
ended up being rainy and/or cloudy the entire time we were in Paris.
After adeptly navigating the Metro we found our hostel and checked in.
The hostel was tiny with about 5 floors of rooms, but only 2-3 rooms
per floor.  It was noticeably cramped and our room hadn’t even been
cleaned before we got it.  Whatever, it was cheap.  So we took off for
lunch and to do some sightseeing.  First stop was the Louvre.

The Louvre is one of the, if not the most well-known museum in
the world, and for a reason.  The place is absolutely gigantic.  It
takes up about five city blocks.  However, I wasn’t really that
impressed.  I can only see depictions of Jesus so many times before I’m
bored to tears.  And there was so much to see it was rather
overwhelming.  Somehow I wandered into the Italian wing, which was
noticeably more popular.  I didn’t even know the Mona Lisa was there
until I saw the crowd of people gawking at it.  I was unimpressed: it’s
about the size of a pillow and I had seen a million prints beforehand.
Not sure what the big deal is with that painting. 

Afterwards we checked out the Arc d’Triumphe, this enormous arch built
to celebrate the French revolution.  Surrounding it is the largest
traffic circle I have even seen, with room for about 15 lanes of cars.
Watching the traffic was hilarious since there aren’t any lanes for
cars and about 10 exits on the outside; we witnessed about five
near-accidents in as many minutes.

Next was the Eiffel Tower.  We approached it from the Metro so it
really snuck up on us; when turning a corner it just presented itself
about 100 yards away.  By this time it was dark and the Tower was lit
up spectacularly.  We declined to go up to the top since it costed
11€.  Friggin tourist attractions anyway.  We only basked in the glow
of the Tower for a few minutes since it was cold and raining, and
subsequently headed back to the hostel to watch the Olympics over a few
(overpriced) beers.

Having already seen the main things we wanted to see, we slept in on
Monday.  At around 10 we went to a bakery for some breakfast goodies,
and in the process of ordering I left my wallet on the counter.  I
didn’t notice this until we had left, and started freaking out.  After
a quick deduction of possibilities as to where the hell I had left it,
we went back to the bakery, where the cashier had seen it and
graciously placed it behind the counter.  A string of "Merci"s later,
we hit the Metro again. First stop: cemetery.  "Why the hell would you
go to a cemetery" you ask?  Why, to pay my respects to Jim.  Morrison.
And apparently the guy’s still quite popular, because there were a
couple dozen bouquets of flowers on his grave.  Afterwards we trained
over to the Notre Dame.  It was remarkably similar to the other large
churches I have visited throughout Westerm Europe: large, ornate, and
swarming with tourists.  We didn’t stay long, and after lunch, walked
about 50 blocks to the Musee d’Orsay.  This was actually the museum I
had had in mind when we went to the Louvre, since it has more of the
stuff I’m interested in.  Unfortunately it’s closed on Mondays.  This
pissed me off quite a bit since we had walked for about 40 minutes to
get there, and instead resumed wandering the streets of Paris.  I tired
of this after a few hours and we headed back to the hostel to shoot the
shit with the French bartender and watch more Olypics.  That night
Kevin took off on his night train back to Osna and I hung out with a
few backpacking Aussies and Canadians down at the bar. 

I wasn’t really impressed with Paris; in fact, I enjoyed Caen more.
Maybe it was the weather, maybe the fact that I got to drive a car, or
maybe because it was cheaper and less touristy.  In a broader sense, though, I really liked France, and solidified my outlook on it’s people, cuisine, and appreciation of the finer things in life.  And I can’t get enough of that super sexy French accent.  Yum.

The Austrian Alps

Skiing in the Alps lives up to it’s hype…and then some.  It was easily the best skiing I have enjoyed in my life, and I don’t think there exists a better place for it…there’s a reason why all the winter olympic alpine competitions are dominated by the Austrians and Swiss.

I spent five full days and six nights in Bad Gastein, Austria.  The train ride down was around 10 hours, but passed fairly quickly as I had reservations on each train and slept for at least half the ride.  Very nice, since I was battling a pretty fierce cold at the time.  I changed trains at Hannnover and München, and rode all the way into Bad Gastein, directly south of Salzburg and in the heart of the Alps. 

In total there are three villages and five very skiable mountains in the spectacular Gastein valley.  Some of the mountains are connected by trails, but most you have to take a bus to.  Check out this link for a map of the area (Just download the .gif provided at the bottom if the navigation doesn’t work).  Each mountain has it’s own character, and fantastically varied trails are abound (supposedly 860 km of them total in the valley).

So at 4:30 PM or so I arrived in Bad Gastein.  By then it was dark out and snowing very heavily.  Hardly anything was plowed so I had to haul my enormous suitcase through 3-4 inches of snow until I finally reached the hostel.  After checking in and taking a shower I headed upstairs to have some dinner and a few beers with a few English dudes, who I ended up hanging out with for the first few days.  The hostel was really great, the dorms were downstairs and had a nice, big, clean shower/bathroom/washroom area.  Upstairs there was the reception area connected to a large, cozy TV room area with a few computers for internet access.  I must say I have missed TV in my few months here in Germany, so I spent a lot of time soaking up its glow.  Also there was a dining room (serving delicious Austrian food) and two bars, the downstairs one looking more like a sauna than a bar.  It was completely decked out in wood from ceiling to floor and was pretty cozy.  In another room was the (free) breakfast-eating area, with a view of the slope across the street.

Sometime that night I had a weird feeling of fluid build-up in my ears…turns out they had gotten inflamed during the day.  Thus, the next morning I woke up early and sought out a doctor (never had an ear infection that I can remember), who gave me some antibiotics.  After picking up skis and a lift ticket, I headed to the mountain. 


100_0662_1
The view from the hostel, looking at the bottom of
Stubnerkogel (click to enlarge)

The lift you see there is the one I headed up after a short wait.  It is a nice, fast gondola going all the way to the summit.  I never timed how long it took, but I want to say around 10-15 minutes or so (Definitely longer than it would take to get down 🙂  So I skiied all day, all on Stubnerkogel’s front slopes.  It was a pretty messy day and I spent a good part of it tumbling down the slopes after mishandling a ski/myself/my speed.  Soon this would change, and by the end of the day I had almost gotten my legs back.

The next day I got up early (it had snowed all evening) and was determined to hit some of the fresh show.  And did I ever, oh my.  It was a bit clearer that day (first day at the summit the visibility was about 20 meters) so I realized there was a trail I hadn’t realized existed going to the back of the mountain.  I took it and was rewarded with the finest skiing of my life.  The slopes were nice and steep, but more importantly with a fresh 3-4 inch layer of white, crisp, virgin snow.  I was in ecstacy the first few runs; it’s indescribable how enjoyable carving nice long turns is in such snow.  Furthermore, it was still snowing, and the kind where you can see the unique character of every single flake as it lands on your glove.  Fantastic.  After a view luscious runs I made my way down to Skizentrum Angertal, then up the facing mountain, Schlossalm, for the first time.  It was still early enough that the wait was short, and I headed up.  For the first run I took one of the intermediate side trails all the way to the bottom, and it was great.  Like skiing through butter.  It wound back and forth, both down gradual and very steep pitches under arched bridges and sharp, narrow paths to the bottom.  That ended up being the most enjoyable run of my life, and I never did run it again because I knew it wouldn’t compare to the first.  At the bottom I waited forever to get onto the lift up (by this time I was in Bad Hofgastein).  The lift here was actually a kind of railway shuttle that took 85 people at a time.  Once you got off that there was another wait for the next type of shuttle to carry you to the top (Think of a gondola, but 15x bigger and carrying 85 people at a time).  At the top I did a few runs and spent most of the day on Schlossalm, eventually skiing my way back to Bad Gastein by 4 PM.

The next day was clear and beautiful.  The downside was a lack of fresh snow to ski on.  Ah well, I can’t have everything.  My goal for the day was checking out the rather intimidating expert trail on Stubnerkogel as well as the 14km (8.7 mile)-long H1 trail on Schlossalm.  The expert trail was kinda dumb, just a steeper version of the trails above and nice and icy where everyone had scraped the snow off.  My solution was finding pockets of collected snow to turn on, otherwise I would just slide down the ice and wipe out.  The H1 trail was legendary (it runs behind a large shoulder of Schossalm, separated from all the other trails) and I took a lot of pictures.  Eventually I made it back up and wanted to take advantage of its layout without stopping to take a picture every 100m.  So I bombed down it like it was meant to be skiied.

By the fourth day I had tired of Stubnerkogel/Schlossalm and wanted to check out something else.  At this point I was a better skiier than I had ever been and was feeling pretty confident, so I was looking for some more challenging runs.  Apparently Sportgastein had some unmaintained "natural" runs so I wanted to take a bus over there.  Unfortunately (at the time), the first bus I hopped on went to Graukogel instead.  So I thought I’d check out the runs and head over to Sportgastein for the afternoon since this would be my last day of skiing.  Well, after a few runs I realized that Graukogel was pretty kickass in its own right (even though the lifts were slow 2-seaters).  It had 3 real nice expert-level trails, 2 of them covered in moguls.  I was totally into moguls by this time as they were the only real challenge left, and ran them for most of the day.  The blue side trail was very nice too, winding with lots of room for creativity (read: taking "shortcuts" through the woods).  I never made it to Sportgastein for I was having far too much fun.

Most of that evening was spent at the bar, and eventually at a club down the street with a few Aussies and other Americans.  The next day was pretty slow, so I sat around watching movies and eventually  checked out the spa cuz it was supposedly world-renowned.  Well, it was pretty damn nice and put the spa here in Osnabrück to shame.  The best part was the outdoor heated spa area.  You sit in a pool of bubbly, 32°C water while breathing in the fresh, crisp mountain air.  Then you go and run around in the snow for awhile, pegging one another with snowballs until you realize you’re freezing, at which time you jump back in the water.  Fun stuff.

That night I was to catch a 9 PM night train to Essen in northern Germany.  Well, I showed up at 9 and looked at the board (each train station has a board listing the daily train schedule for the stop) and realized my train wasn’t there.  This put me off a bit but I waited for a half-hour or so anyway, then walked back to the hostel thinking the train didn’t exist.  The really nice kid at the desk heard my story and called Die Bahn, who said the train was late, really late.  So I headed back to the train station and waited for an hour or so before running into the conductor, who graciously told me my train had come and gone.  Thanks for the announcement at 9, asshole.  So I booked another night at the hostel and took a 9 am sunday train back to Salzburg, München, Hannover, and eventually Osnabrück.  Sans reservations, which sucked.

Looking back on it, I should have bought a five-day pass and explored Sportgastein that fifth day.  No matter though, for I will be back.  Someday, I promise.  It’s just that good.

Amsterdam

This trip had been envisioned for quite a while…from the first time I looked at a map of Europe and found Osnabrück. Amsterdam is about 3 hours directly west (via train), tantalizingly close to Osnabrück. I decided that if I was ever going to get there for a decent price I would need to organize everything myself, which is exactly what happened. We needed six people to get the group discount (50% off) and managed to spend only 40€ apiece for the train there and back. The group consisted of me, two other Americans, two of our Swedish friends, and a friend from China. Quite worldly.

Having experienced the Netherlands twice now, I can say that it is thus far my favorite country in Europe. Their attitudes towards so many social issues align with my own. Amsterdam is well-known as the most liberal city in the world, and it was quite apparent. Prostitution is legal and regulated by the government, soft drugs are sold in shops, and pornography is almost entirely unrestricted (it’s kind of weird looking for magazines at a newsstand and seeing porno mags on the shelf). This is not to say I indulge in or even recommend such things, I just believe that individuals should have the freedom to do whatever they want to themselves. These policies were adopted for the betterment of Dutch society, and it shows. Amsterdam is a remarkably safe city with hardly a trace of the homelessness that terrorizes with an icy grip of black death the large cities of the US.

On to the adventure. We took off from Osnabrück around 3 PM or so and arrived in Amsterdam in time for dinner (I love trains). Upon leaving the train station I realized I had never looked at the directions to the hostel, just where it was on a map. No worries, I thought, and wandered around for a few blocks. Eventually I bit my pride and asked directions; on the second try we were successful and checked in to our hostel without a hitch. Next we got a bite to eat, then decided it was time to have a coffee or two. Well the coffee ended up being pretty strong (albeit delicious) and the time came to do some wandering. Unbelievably, nobody had the initiative to lead so I took it upon myself to, uh, guide us around the city for a few hours. My sole objective was finding a canal to follow; luckily, that’s not difficult in Amsterdam since just about every other street is parallel to a canal. At this point I was pretty wired from the coffee and almost incapable of meaningful communication, but somehow found our “destination.” The canal took us through part of the red light district (unbelievably surreal!) and at some point we wandered back to the hostel due to Lina’s map-reading skills. There we met up with Kevin who had been unprepared for such caffeinated coffee and went back early. The rest of the night was spent playing foosball, pool, and having a few pints of Heineken at the hostel. At some point we met a couple of coffee-enthusiast Aussies and chatted for awhile.

Saturday was a bit more tame. We had breakfast next door at this restaurant and I had a downright weird “Naturel” omelet with a cup of tea. From there we walked to the Rijks Museum, which had been recommended by an old German dude we were talking to on the train. It was expensive but I was quite impressed with the paintings on display (mostly Rembrandt and his students, all Dutch). Afterwards we got some pizza at a shady back-alley Italian joint and I elected we go to a pub and watch some football (apparently nobody else had any sort of decision-making abilities, so I was appointed “fuhrer” and sole decision-maker). Several pubs on our street were showing English Premier League games so we took a seat and watched Chelsea take on Wigan over a couple pints of Heineken. There we ran into a large group of drunk British arseholes (they seem to be everywhere, there’s even a group in Osnabrück) which started to tick me off. Why come to Amsterdam if you’re so damn intolerant and completely un-chill? After the game we wandered around a bit and found a Chinese restaurant for dinner, where Han ordered us some Chinese specialty. Twelve plates of food later we were ready to dig in. It was damn tasty, but to the flavor of 90€. Afterwards we did some more wandering and eventually ended up hanging around in our increasingly-cooler hostel, playing cards, foosball and pool. Most people were drinking coffee at the other tables, it was pretty late so I couldn’t really figure out why. I wasn’t really thirsty so I decided to have a poorly-crafted coffee-stick instead, and we lounged about until it was time for bed.

Sunday was warmer albeit busy. Han wanted to experience the sex museum, so we did. It was pretty funny, and surprisingly full of actual historic elements. We also wandered about a bit more and did a little shopping before making our way back to the train station. Then we boarded the wrong train (ours was going the same place but two hours later) so the conductor kicked us off in Amersfoort. There we sat around in a coffee/tea shop reading magazines and drinking tea until our train came. The rest of the trip went off without a hitch (well except the unexpected 1.5-hour wait in Bad Bentheim) and we were back in Osnabrück by 930 or so.

Wolfsburg, weather

It’s sunday afternoon and the snow has diminished to 3-4 inches. I have been told countless times how Osnabrück (and most of Europe for that matter) hardly ever gets snow, and when it does, it melts quickly. Well I am currently witnessing the latter, but the former doesn’t seem so credible. On friday I took a bus east to Wolfsburg to tour VW’s Autostadt there. It had snowed most of thursday night so there were a couple inches already by the time we left. By the time we returned (a 3 hour bus ride turned into 4.5 on the way home) there were 6-8 inches of the stuff. Lord knows I’m no stranger to the white stuff, but apparently the Germans are. Three days later our road still hasn’t been plowed. Apparently their only defense is salt, and lots of it.

About the Autostadt…what I got out of this was a grandiose attempt by VW to sell more of their cars, and their subdivisions’ cars. I did thoroughly enjoy everything, though, and will post pics soon. The Autostadt is this large complex with dozens of different “pavilions” (some built half-underground and covered by a mound of earth), towers, museums, and restaraunts. Each of VW’s subdivisions (Seat, Lamborghini, Audi, Skoda, Bentley, Bugatti) had their own pavilion to show off their cars. Think a lot of snazzy architecture, dim lights, lasers, fog machines, and shiny spinning prototype cars. Some were more interesting (Bentley) while others were just downright weird (Audi). I am partial to Audis but was a little disappointed by their presentation. All glitz, little substance.

The most interesting building of the complex was the auto museum. It’s this skinny, 4-5 story glass building showing off both VW and other autos throughout the 20th century. I could have spent all day in there reading about the history, and there were probably 100+ models to guide you through the museum. Naturally, this is where I took most of my photos 🙂

All in all a fairly interesting weekend…stay posted

Three cities, one week

I’ve done quite a bit of travelling in the past week, going to three cities in the span of seven days. It all started last weekend when I suggested going back to Bremen to see a bit of the city. The Akademische Auslandsamt had organized another trip to go to Bad Iburg, a tiny hamlet fairly close to Osnabrück. I never signed up because I had zero desire to see a place smaller than Osnabrück. So instead, Kevin and I returned to Bremen. After barely missing the train (it left literally 5 seconds after we boarded) we arrived to a nice sunny day in Bremen, one of the three city-states left in Germany.

The day was mostly uneventful, we wandered around and eventually made our way to the Beck’s brewery (it’s freakin huge), but unfortunately all the tours were booked for the day. So, since I had donned by newly purchased Werder Bremen hat, we decided to see if we could catch the game in a pub nearby. After some random wandering we stumbled upon a completely packed Irish pub with several TV projectors. Werder was playing Bayern München for the top spot in the Bundesliga. Unfortunately Werder’s lack of defense killed them again and they ended up losing 3-1. The crowd was noticeably subdued for most of the match.

Last week I had almost zilch homework to do so we ended up going to a bar and/or club every night of the week. On thursday I went with a group of AEGEE’ers (this Europe-wide club promoting European integration) from our Osnabrück chapter to a party across the border in the Netherlands, Enschede to be precise. Unfortunately it was raining so we only hit about 90 mph on the autobahn, but made it there in 1.5 hours or so. I was amazed at the complete lack of border control, you literally just drive across as if entering a different state in the US. At that point I realized Germany would never have a shortage of marijuana or other soft drugs.

The party was initially pretty tame, yet it was interesting being with a bunch of Germans who didn’t speak the native language. AEGEE’s official language is English, though, which made things easier. However the entire party was conducted in Dutch. The facilities were fantastic, at one end a band played and at the other was the bar, dishing out 80 cent beers. Midway through the night the Enschedens decided the crowd wasn’t lively enough and started handing out free beer. The tactic was quite effective, after an hour just about everyone was dancing. It ended up being a fantastic night filled with all sorts of boogeying. However we didn’t get back to Osnabrück until 4 AM, which made friday’s 8 AM class pretty awful.

Since most everyone had devoted the weekend to preparing for/attending the Uni-ball on Saturday (think prom, but a lot cooler) there wasn’t all that much going on in terms of nightlife. I declined to go to the ball since I didn’t have proper attire (I regret not going, it sounded pretty great). So instead Brittany and I headed to Hannover. The day involved wandering around the city and checking out what it had to offer. There were a few art museums I wanted to check out but we never ended up finding them. The city was laden with modern art sculptures which I enjoyed. Overall the day was fairly uneventful. Once again (two Saturdays in a row now) I found myself on a train filled with drunk football hooligans, carrying on and smoking the whole way. I didn’t understand how this had happened, since there weren’t even any games on Saturday, nevertheless there they were. Maybe they forgot there wasn’t a game and just went through the normal Sat. routine, who knows. I have had about enough of their carrying-on, incessant smoking, and general idiocy.

I think further travel will have to involve surveying the night life as well.

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